Every project one undertakes on board usually has a good side where whatever was broken is now fixed and working with less effort and expense than expected and a bad side like, the stinky dirty mess one makes when replacing the joker valve on the head!  No matter how long you work on boats there is no escaping the good and bad of any project though sometimes you are surprised when what you thought was going to be extremely difficult and frustrating turns out to be simple and easy, sometimes it is the other way around, as was the case with Malaya this week.

On Saturday I started the teak deck removal.  One of the reasons for removing the teak deck was concern with how well each individual strake was bedded down, especially the strake along the waterways, thus making us wonder how much water was or was not getting into the deck coring which we all know usually doesn’t have good consequences.

Well, come to find out the teak decks, with the exception of the strakes along the waterway, are pretty well bedded and are coming up in 2″ sections.  So the bad news, removing the teak will be more time consuming and require more effort than expected.  The good news, so far the coring under the teak is dry!

This week we also got the patterns made and starting cutting out the teak for the inlays in the cockpit seats.  For patterns we used lightweight posterboard which is cheap and easy to work with.  The teak we are using to replace the old is salvaged from a powerboat remodel where the whole teak covered cockpit area was cut out and teak and all headed for the dumpster.  I managed to divert enough to replace the old teak inlays on the cockpit seats.

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As you can see in photo #2 the teak still has the balsa core and interior glass still attached.  On the smaller pieces I was able to remove the balsa core by running them thru a very large band saw which left about a 1/4″ of balsa core.  On the larger pieces and a couple with plywood backing I scored them every inch length and width wise with a skill saw to a depth about 1/4″ shy of the teak.  I then was able to remove the cubes of coring with a hammer and where needed a chisel.  Once the bulk of the coring was removed I took an electric hand planner to it and removed 90% of the rest of the coring.  A sharp chisel easily removed the rest down to the fiberglass scrim on the back of the teak slats.

The teak pieces are now rough cut to size, ready for the final fitting process which will happen after the receiving pockets are ground down and ready for the teak.

This next week as time permits teak deck removal   and design work on the new chain locker and head installation will also continue.